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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.